WADzilla [8B] FA & Repeat from Kydd & Squire


Around two weeks ago, Jonny Kydd completed the first ascent of an alternate start to ‘Godzilla’ [8A+] at Biblins Cave, naming his problem ‘WADzilla’ and suggesting a grade of [8B]. Having made the first ascent of ‘Godzilla Sit’ [8B] just last year, Jonny managed to complete ‘Wadzilla’ relatively quickly from his experience on the parent problem. Just one week later, James Squire repeated the problem, just missing the first ascent.

 

PIPPED AT THE POST – YOU MUST BE KYDDING ME

Biblins Cave used to be a “locals-only” crag, guarded by secrecy due to it’s banned access. Local young climber James Squire managed secure access to the venue from Nature England back in 2014. Following this, James was drawn to the line of ‘WADzilla’ and had been working the problem for several years.

I’ve been trying to climb this roof since I opened Biblins 4 years ago and felt to happy to have finally climbed it!

I think it is definitely one of the hardest things I have climbed so either hard 8B or soft 8B+ is fair.J.SQUIRE

TIME WELL SPENT FOR A FIRST ASCENT

Jonny had been working the some moves and secitons of problem for the past 2 or 3 years, with the last 5 sessions being dedicated to the ‘WADzilla’ start.

All in all I think I had 17 sessions, over 2 – 3 years, in which I had tried the moves. Many of those sessions were spent working either Godzilla or Godzilla Sit.J.KYDD

From the UKClimbing.com logbook ascents, the grade of the parent route, ‘Godzillla’ seems to have some question as to whether the line is slightly soft. This could impact the grade of ‘WADzilla’ in the future, however only further repeats will be able to gauge accurately.

Jonny commented, “Grading is always a funny business especailly when matching the finish hold is part of the crux! The stand start seems to be established at ~8A+ and the lower moves, although not as difficult, are still no push over and adds 7 moves of sustained roof climbing on smallish holds with lots of undercuts and feels as though it warrants an increase in grade.

I dropped the last move many times from the start despite being able to do this move almost every time in isolationJ.KYDD