Tunesday Track: Tove Lo – Habits (Stay High) – Hippie Sabotage Remix

Earlier this year in March, popular Californian brother-duo artist Hippie Sabotage released their remix of the Tove Lo track, Habits and offered an alternative name of Stay High. This Tunesday Track borders on mainstream, having received over 82 million views on the Official Video, but it’s such a mega tune we had to include it.

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Tunesday Track: Bon Iver – Flume (Kulkid Remix)

Things take a turn for the softer side of music this week as the Tunesday Track turns it’s headtorch over to the indie genre, with a twist. Bon Iver are an American Indie Folk band founded way back in 2007 and since then they’ve only released two albums. Their first album ‘For Emma, Forever Ago‘ and the track featured here, ‘Flume‘, was the inspiration for Kulkid‘s remix. Kulkid has managed to maintain the essence of the Bon Iver style whilst building intriguing samples from the track to bring together an upbeat and rather sombre tune.

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LOCAL: Squire Catches The Wave on Dartmoor

18 year old James Squire from Bristol has made the most of the early winter conditions and managed to climb a notable project on The Wave at Bonehill, Dartmoor. Earlier attempts had been made from notable climbers such as Matt Birch and Mikey Cleverdon, however had been left uncompleted and open for young James to get stuck in. After 3 sessions of brutal skin shredding projecting, James found himself stood atop his new line ‘Catching The Wave’ graded V11/ Font 8A.

Recently, James also managed to climb his first Font 8A+ with ‘The Carpenter’s Apprentice’ at Dinas Rock which was originally climbed by Liam Fyfe back in 2009. Check out James’ video below:

James would like to thank the following for their continued support:

La Sportiva
The Climbing Academy
Tip Juice
Padstar Climbing Holds

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Slow-Mo Bouldering Will Make You Want To Train

LouderThan11 are the production team behind several very cool, FREE, feature length climbing videos such as The Swiss Account, Threat Level Columbia and Park Life, the latter is a must watch for anyone who drools over granite bouldering. Those of you with a sense of humour, make a point of watching the very funny short, Shit Climbers Say.

In this video, LouderThan11 take us very veerrryy sloowwwlllyyy to Vail, Colorado to see some of the worlds best route setting for the Bouldering World Cup. What better way to appreciate quality problem and get totally psyched for some strength and power training, than at 240 frames per second?

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Tunesday Track: SCNTST – Wavez Change

Diese Wocher ‘Melodietag Spur’ kommt aus Deutschland!
This weeks ‘Tunesday Track’ comes from Germany!

Talented progressive techno artist SCNTST produced this track back in 2013 and was featured in the album ‘Self Therapy’.  This young gun was only born in ’93, yet his sound is mature, full of character and, most of all, comes with a bag of psyche for your climbing playlist!

Listen to the tune through the video above and checkout his record label’s website, Boysnoize Records. Here’s their SoundCloud page aswell:

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Northumbland Bouldering Looks Ace!

Joe and Sam Lawson, the brothers behind Lawson Beta Productions, have produced this great video showcasing the quality sandstone bouldering on offer in the Northumbland area. They filmed the 25min video on a two week trip this summer, ticking a lot of problems from 7A and above!

Checkout their Vimeo Page here: http://vimeo.com/user26764953

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Tunesday Track: Little People – Start Shootin’ (Little People’s Americana Remix)

Welcome to Week 1 of the Tunesday Track!

We kick it off with an artist that many of you might recognise from having featured in number of Dosage films. Little People give themselves the genre of ‘Downtempo Instrumental Hiphop with Beats and Bleeps”, how obvious. To confuse the genre further, this is a remix! Those of you that are Neil Young fans, keep listening, there’s a special bit for you to enjoy or rage about.

Check out this link to the Little People website for listening and Free Downloads: www.littlepeoplemusic.com

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LOCAL: Tom Bunn with Cornish E7 FA

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Tom Bunn has made the first ascent of an incredibly photogenic new route near Tintagel, Cornwall. With young gun Alex Moore at along side, they attempted to work out the moves and gear first on top rope before moving on swiftly to lead attempts. Tom managed the FA on his first lead whilst Alex took a fall from the crux on his first attempt but later dispatched in on his second.

[vc_row][vc_column width=”1/2″]Tom comments: “After attempting another project near by, I remembered a tip-off about a stunning arete line, so we investigated and found the hidden Hunter’s Moon. A week later I went to inspect the line with my ever patient girlfriend/ bossman, Elaine Budden (very late at night!) and we hammered in two stakes about 4ft into the ground. I inspected the route and knew I had to get back immediately. Returning with strong, young gun Alex Moore, we figured out the moves and gear on toprope before deciding to go for the lead. I dispatched the FA first go with Alex making a clean lead on his 2nd attempt, making the second ascent.”

[/vc_column] [vc_column width=”1/2″]huntersmoon-close-tom2[/vc_column] [/vc_row] [vc_column width=”1/1″]huntersmoon-tom-top

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LOCAL: UK’s First Deep Water Solo Comp a Success

For those of you with your social media eyes wide shut, The Quay Climbing Centre hosted the UK’s very first deep water solo competition in Exeter, Devon.

Climbers took attempts at trying to climb each of their categories 3 problems on their first go, receiving more points for achieving higher holds and becoming very soggy when they could not climb any further. Top climbers such as Steve McClure, Neil Gresham and visiting, US climber, Sierra Blair-Coyle attended the event to do battle with the short, steep Entre-Prises built wall.

Boulders team member Joby Newson has made this excellent video round-up of the event, please share your support by liking and subscribing to his YouTube page. Additional thanks go to Paul Oakley for taking some incredible photos of the event.

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LOCAL: This Video is Beautiful and Epic Rolled Into One!

Rowan Spear-Bulmer of RSBStudios displays his talent and passion in this epic video of Dan Turner crushing ‘AWOL Apprentice’ 7C at Tintagel North and ‘The Revolution is Coming’ 8A at Hartland. Both problems and locations are original Tom Newberry developments, having made the first ascent of ‘AWOL…’ after Tintagel North suffered a boulder reset from the winter storms.

We’re really excited to see more from RSBStudios! Show your appreciation by Liking and Subscribing the Rowan’s Youtube Page.

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Steve McClure Onsights ‘Strawberries’ E7

The iconic 80’s Ron Fawcett route of ‘Strawberries’ is one of, if not the most coveted onsights in Britain, being both steep and technical whilst also being very difficult climbing to read. Today, Steve McClure made the first British onsight of ‘Strawberries’! The first onsight was by Stefan Glowacz, way back in 1987 almost a decade after the first ascent and now over 3 decades later it has recieved it’s first by a Brit.

Well done Steve!

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LOCAL: Ellis Butler-Barker 8b+ FA

ellis-chimera-8b+

Ellis Butler-Barker nearing the Tuppence jugs of his new link-up ‘Chimera’, 8b+.

The very strong and very motivated Ellis Butler-Barker, 17, has managed the First Ascent of a new link up at Ansteys Cove, Devon. Ellis’ ‘Chimera’ starts up ‘A Fisherman’s Tale’ (8b) before moving left and finishing up ‘Tuppence’ (8b).

Ellis has suggested a grade of 8b+, but comments that this could actually the route may be quite hard for the grade.

Keep your eyes on this one!

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LOCAL: The BMC Cornish Climbing Festival

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The BMC Report:

Join us for the 2014 BMC Cornish Climbing Festival, which will be based at the Count House, Bosigran, and takes place over the weekend of 4-6 July. Golden granite, deep blue-green sea and some of the finest real ales in the country will be staples of the weekend.

Whether you’re new to climbing or a seasoned sea cliff adventurer, come and spend a weekend in the company of local climbers and enjoy everything that West Penwith has to offer.

What’s happening?

The festival gets started from about 6pm on Friday evening with drinks at the Gurnard’s Head pub

Saturday’s action-packed day begins with breakfast provided by onsite caterers The Floating Millstone, which will set you up for a good day’s climbing.

Saturday evening entertainment includes a guest talk by legendary South West rock climbing pioneer Frank Cannings and a prize raffle in support of the Climbers Against Cancer charity, with a host of great prizes including guidebooks and clothing. Saturday night will be rounded off with a party back at the Count House.

Re-fuel on Sunday morning with The Floating Millstone, and head off for some more climbing.

Accommodation and catering

Camping is available at a reduced rate of £5 per person per night at at the Count House, the Climbers’ Club hut at Bosigran, but this does not include access to the hut’s kitchen facilities, and is on a first come first served basis. Overflow camping will be available at nearby Bosigran Farm.

The Floating Millstone will be onsite providing catering, cooked to order, for breakfast and dinner at discounted prices. There is no obligation for you to camp or eat at the Count House and you don’t need a ticket for the weekend, just turn up!

More information

For the latest info, to register your interest, and invite your friends, check out the 2014 BMC Cornish Climbing Festival on Facebook

A special thank you to our Cornish Climbing Festival sponsors:

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LOCAL: Mikey C Repeats Dartmoor 7C

In this RustyPeg video, Mikey Cleverdon makes a very rare repeat of ‘Foals Chopper Sit Start’ (f7C) on Saddle Tor, Dartmoor. This is most likely the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this problem and is probably quite hard for the grade, having to finish up an already stiff f7A/ V6 ‘Foals Chopper’ after reversing the end of ‘Saddle Tor Traverse’ (f7C+/ V10).

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LOCAL: Tom Bunn – The Camel E6 6c

Tom Bunn, having recently made an ascent of ‘Rough ‘n’ Ready’ at Haytor, has made the second ascent of Simon Young’s ‘The Camel’ E6 6c on the Lowman.

Tom comments:

“I abbed the route one morning to see if it would be a worthwhile prospect and came back on Thursday to headpoint. After a couple of goes on the toprope, I lead up to place the first pieces and climbed back to the floor to rest. It seemed reasonable to not use any preplaced RPs or the matchstick thread, which makes the tough press move after the crux very bold indeed. Perhaps it ups the grade slightly, but still closer to E6 than E7 in this style. If someone decks out here I might change my opinion though!”

 

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Big Willy Attitude – What a Name!

Ned Fehally showcases his ‘Big Willy Attitude’ 7C+ and his incredible lower body flexibility in this video. The problem is a sit start to the popular ‘Cock O’ the Rock’ 7A found up at Stanage High Neb. We’re literally posting this for the name…

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LOCAL: Last & Hernan Repeat Splendid Isolation

Tom Last accompanied by Pelao ‘Chilie’ Hernan made the long slog up to Fur Tor, Dartmoor to attempt the seldom clibed route of ‘Splendid Isolation’ E3 5b. The route, being a total solo, is nearer to a boulder problem than a route, however the rescue time if you became injured would be less than ideal.

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LOCAL: Tom Bunn in West Penwith 8A FA

Tom Bunn has completed a ground breaking first ascent of a new boulder problem located on ‘The Dreamboat’ boulder at Priests Cove, West Cornwall. ‘Wonderland’ climbs from a sit-start at the very bottom right of the steep granite bloc, before moving left and entering an extremely fierce crux to join the original loine of ‘The Dreamboat’ 7B.

[vc_row][vc_column width=”1/2″]Tom comments on the grade: “The grade sits somewhere between Font 7C+ and 8A. Having not climbed 8A before it is hard to attach such a big number to a FA, but I believe the climbing speaks for itself.”……”Finally linking all ~16 moves together felt harder than I expected, even climbing it 1st go ‘that’ session. Personally it’s harder than anything I’ve ever climbed and therefore suggest a grade of soft 8A. Wherever the grade settles, I’m just chuffed to have climbed such a truly wicked line!”[/vc_column] [vc_column width=”1/2″]wonderland-8a-tombunn[/vc_column][/vc_row]

So, who’s going to get the second ascent?