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PICS: Bristol University Hammers Haytor!
12 March

Today I recieved a very concerning email from Local Climber George Coiley. Rather than explain, it reads as folows:

"Last week while climbing on Hay Tor we were joined by a large group of thirty or so Geology students. They seemed amicable enough and we chatted with a couple, even lending a mat to one who was struggling with the scramble down to the left of Zig Zag. In due time they made theirway behind us, heading over to Lowman and I racked up for the Letterbox Wall/Hangover combo...

...Unfortunately I’d not even got my shoes on when we heard
a rapping and turned round to witness a one of them hacking at the top of Lowman with a pick (literally part of the actual tor!). We hardly had time to exchange a look of shocked amazement before Ihad run over and confronted the man in question. With my shout of ‘What the hell are you doing’ the man turned around, he would have undoubtedly continued if I’d not intervened. Next followed a heated exchange between myself and some of the students. I am happy to say that they did, however, desist from their onslaught.

The group informed me that it was acceptable because they were geologists and had to take samples. However, this excuse is invalid as all fragments were left, not collected. If samples must be collected it should surely be done through collecting already loose rock, not destroying the top of a tor! The damage caused was not sensitive or scientific at all, in fact it was simply a childish impulse to destroy.

They were of course adults, however the way they were acting would suggest they needed to be supervised; the
mood was one of an immature primary school trip.
When I demanded to speak to their tutor they told me
he’d gone for a walk.

I feel strongly that inexperienced and ignorant undergraduates should not be running amok with picks and hammers; if every university outing allowed this then rocks throughout the country would diminish in size rapidly!

The university’s policies on outings clearly must be altered and I believe it’s important for them to know that this sort practice is totally unacceptable.

I have tried to get in contact with the tutor in question, but so far have had no luck. The current Head of the Geology Department at Bristol is Prof. Michael Kendall. He can be reached at gljmk@bristol.ac.uk The group in question were there on the 8th March. If you believe this sort of practice is unacceptable please give him an email. Nothing abusive or rude, just asking for less hammering and make sure the students
are supervised!"

It seems George did the correct thing by challenging the vandals, many others may have left the Bristol students to it, or reacted in a much for phsyical way!

Please do email Mike at Bristol Uni to let him know how you feel, in a mature and adult fashion.

Congratulate George on Facebook >Here<

PLEASE LEAVE COMMENTS BELOW

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VIDEO: Local Media, Local Wall, Local Boy
07 January

BBC Spotlight visited Alex Waterhouse in light of he recent invitation to the Great British Youth Climbing Team. This is a huge deal for any young climber, and Alex recieved the invitation after placing 2nd in the Nationals, aged only 14, Alex climbs to a standard that many of us could only hope for.

Alex runs his own business to provide for his climbing, Tinyclimb, makes creative chalk bags to a high quality level that could rival any major climbing company. He is also a member of The Barn Climbing Squad and attends training sessions twice a week at The Barn Climbing Wall. They are coached by Mikey Cleverdon and Chris Cubbit and all have a huge chance to succeed in the sport.

We all wish Alex and The Squad the best of luck in their future climbing!

2011

VIDEO: A Jungle Book Story - Font 8a
05 March

Once upon a time there was a hobbit of the shire. He believed in one move so powerful that he devoted much time and skin into completing the challenge. The story started with an ascent of 'King of the Swingers' graded around Font 7c. The story finishes with a new ascent,
'Jungle V.I.P.'

For anyone who's actually following my ridiculously (and rubbish) story time, you will hopefully understand that a major new ascent has gone down.

Mikey Cleverdon has managed to complete his "Superman" project at the Lakeside Boulders, Burrator. 'Jungle V.I.P.' Climbs the line of 'King of the Swingers', but creates a harder, purer, and downright sick problem that
eliminates the boulder below the roof previously used in that problem.

'Jungle V.I.P.' has been graded (soft) Font 8a, and features only a few wild moves. The roof is climbed, using only the bare necessities, from a juggy rail into a micro crimp with a dyno to a small "almost Jug" on the lip. It
In a grade conversion, Font 8a weighs in at about V11 thus being one of the hardest problems on the moor. The move to the lip is would almost certainly be a contender for the hardest move on the moor!

"Ha-Ha! Man that's what I call a swinging party."

Burrator Guidebook >Here<
Mikey on Facebook >Here<

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Dewerstone Bolted
20 March

The title is an obvous tabloid style windup. The Dewerstone has had a bolt placed on the belay after the 1st pitch on 'Central Groove'. The bolt is not of the sport climbing variety, it is infact to hold the deemed "un-safe" block, that is so commonly (wrongly) used as a single anchor belay, in place.

This seems like a very good idea, and on closer inspection the National Trust have seemed to have done a very good job. The large metal washer even says "Do not use as an anchor". If the block was to plunge, perhaps one of the many of us that rack up below central groove could be seriously injured, not to mention the tiny flake holds on 'Scimitar' Would be destroyed!

At the last South West BMC meeting a vote was held to decide on pushing the rock off or for bolting it in place. The results where then sent to the National Trust to help with their final decision.

Something else for the next BMC South West Agenda would be an abseil station ontop of 'Leviathon'. Poor Tree!

The BMC reports Here
The BBC reports Here

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Devon Re-Sent and Re-Re-Sent
19 March

"Hi Tom, I did 'Devon Sent' yesterday. Thought you might want to put something up." Dave Westlake modestly emailed RustyPeg.

Dave W managed to make the second ascent after it originally being climbed nearly 7 years ago.
Another Strong'un Ted Kingsnorth managed to tick the third ascent soon after.

For a full report read Dave Henderson's News at Javu. You can also read the guide to "The Woods".

Photo Courtesy of Simon Downing.

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Exmoor Exclusive!
16 March

Grant "Bruticus" Edwards has (finally!) released his Exmoor bouldering guidebook and article. As the article further explains that the North Devon/ Somerset coastline has
much in the way of bouldering, probably to more of an extent than much of Cornwall.
As for the quality, well it doesnt get any better!

The area is an awesome training/ proving ground for everyone, of all grades.

Well Done to Team North Devon for bringing us so many new problems to play on.
Good effort Grant(icus) for gettin this out there!

Click Here to Download Grant's Exmoor Bouldering Article.

Click Here to Download the Lynmouth East Bouldering Guide.

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Fake Equipment - The BMC Reports
12 March

The British Mountaineering Council have sent out warning of Fake Petzl Gear being produced by criminals.

This would normally only be hassle, but not only does it take money away from our climbing companies, the equipment is also extremely dangerous. The Equipment that has been found has been tested and it is failing at dangerously low forces.

If you think you have purchased/ know of anywhere selling fake Petzl equipment, please
contact Lyon Equipment by Clicking Here

Please Click Here to read The BMC's report.

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Video: New Burrator Boulders by Downing
10 March

In the deepest darkest reaches of the moor, a few more good sized boulders have recently been found. Aproximatley 10 problems from low grades up to about Font 7b+ have been developed by Simon Downing.

Simon's most recent accomplishment was the succesfull First Ascent of what looks like one of the best problems in the area.

On the 7th March Simon climbed 'Jay-Z' and gave it a grade of Font 7b+, which certainly makes it one of the hardest problems in the area. 'Jay-Z' climbs an overhung left hand arete with tenuous feature-full holds at arm span, on the right. The problem is technical and is not over quickly.

The problem has already seen its second ascent, by Tom Bunn. Tom worked the problem by torch light on the 9th March, and reckoned to be about Font 7b after a succesful ascent.

Both ascents used different sequences through the middle section, and the latter had/ has a much longer ape index!

To Watch the Video - >Click Here<

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Video: Dave Westlake meets Alan Smith
01 March

Dave Westlake of the Shire has recently repeated the high quality V9 at Houndtor, Dartmoor. The Problem, 'Alan Smith' (named after the guy who runs, or used to run food van in the carpark), utilizes an overhung arete moving upwards on slopers.

Dave also came first at the January Boulder Comp @ The Barn Climbing Centre.

You can view the video on Tubeyou, or by clicking here.

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January Barn Comp - The Results
14 February

The Barn Climbing Wall have released the results for the competition on 29th January.

Well Done to the strong winners and everyone who entered! Also thanks to evereyone at The Barn for an awesome day!

Open Under 11's Finals
1^st	Rosie Walters
2^nd	Katherine Goddard
3^rd	Rosie Hollilay
4^th	Jim Luckhurst
Qualifiers
Under 11	Name	Score
1^st	Rosie Walters	198
2^nd	Katherine Goddard	150
3^rd	Rosie Hollilay	141
4^th	Jim Luckhurst	134
5^th	Kurtis Maslen-Riches	120
6^th	Matthew Earnshaw	97

12 to 15 Male Finals
1^st	Luke Dawson
2^nd	Alex Waterhouse
3^rd	Alex Moore
4^th	Jack Luckhurst
Qualifiers
12 to 15 Male	Name	Score
1^st	Luke Dawson	484
2^nd	Alex Waterhouse	454
3^rd	Jack Luckhurst	436
4^th	Alex Moore	424
5^th	Ellis Butler Barker	350
6^th	Tom Wright	311
7^th	Will Hornby	310
8^th	Dan Martin	298
9^th	Alex Chapman	290
10^th	Cameron Hutchins	247
11^th	Corey Maslen-Riches	217
12^th	Lewis Rickason	190
13^th	Morgan Whittaker	160
14^th	Rogan Symons	117

12 to 15 Female Finals
1^st	Selena Thyssen
2^nd	Faith Walters
3^rd	Jess Portus
4^th	Emily Vandendorpe
Qualifiers
12 to 15 Female	Name	Score
1^st	Selena Thyssen	294
2^nd	Jess Portus	268
3^rd	Faith Walters	249
4^th	Emily Vandendorpe	221
5^th	Megan Cousins	168
6^th	Catherine Berna	161
7^th	Emily Kate	137
8^th	Paige	104
8^th	Amber	84

Open Male Finals
1^st	Dave Westlake
2^nd	Adam Cooper
3^rd	Ollie Wheeldon
4^th	Tim Exley
Qualifiers
Open Male	Name	Score
1^st	Ollie Wheeldon	486
2^nd	Dave Westlake	474
3^rd	Adam Cooper	444
4^th	Tim Exley	441
5^th	Tristan Sherlock	421
6^th	Paul Roberts	416
7^th	Edmund Morris	398
8^th	Ben Vierya	387
9^th	Sam Holden	377
10^th	Reece Wotton	351
11^th	Tim Redman	349
12^th	Luke Wheeldon	347
13^th	Matt Parkinson	327
13^th	Neil Blom	267
14^th	Sergei	322
15^th	Joe Clawley	320
16^th	Simon Kitchin	310
17^th	Haydn Jones	305
18^th	Jack Crozier	284
18^th	Jamie Trump	284
19^th	Jack Castle	258
20^th	Robin Yonge	67
21^st	Duncan Carter	50

Open Female Finals
1^st	Elaine Budden
2^nd	Gill Wood
3^rd	Kelly Budden
4^th	Catherine Heraty
Qualifiers
Open Female	Name	Score
1^st	Elaine Budden	298
2^nd	Gill Wood	230
3^rd	Kelly Budden	207
4^th	Catherine Heraty	184
5^th	Tori Taylor	172
6^th	Claire Everett	167
7^th	Rosanna Harborne	166
8^th	Bea Chater	150
9^th	Victoria Logan	145
10^th	Meg Baker	142
11^th	Linda Hedges	137
12^th	Maddie Arnold	120

Open 35+ Years Finals
1^st	Grant Edwards
2^nd	Nick Dill
3^rd	Matt Telfor
4^th	Darren Marquand
Qualifiers
Open 35+	Name	Score
1^st	Nick Dill	508
2^nd	Grant Edwards	424
3^rd	Matt Telfor	364
4^th	Darren Marquand	321
5^th	Jenko (Left Early!)	384
6^th	Nigel Kerr	310
7^th	Mark Lewis	308
8^th	C.Dawson	298
9^th	Duncan Skingley	287
10^th	Phil Waterhouse	260
11^th	Bob Walters	200
12^th	Hamish Mckee	154
13^th	Cheryl Stansbury	150

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January Barn Comp - Get Some!
6 January

The Barn Climbing Wall are hosting their second comp of the winter season on the 29th January, with a MASSIVE £700 prize fund. The grades will range from between F2 to F7c with the finals being held a short time after the respective end time.

Sponsored by BEYOND HOPE Distributers of PRANA, EVOLV and METOLIUS.

The Catergories are:

Catergory	Time
11 Years and Under	9.45pm - 1pm
12 - 15 Years Male	9.45pm - 1.45pm
12 - 15 Years Female	9.45pm - 1.45pm
Open Male	2pm - 6pm
Open Female	2pm - 6pm
35 Year and Over Male and Female	2pm - 6pm

2010

Tintagel Guide Updates
23 December

Tom Newberry has updated his crag info guides, for the spot he has recently devloped. "Tintagel North Superbloc" is one of the most scenic spots for North Cornish bouldering, and has some of the best problems of their grade and type.

The Semi-Northern Raider says ," Im just psyched to spread the word of the area", which is proven with things like This and Tom's other exploits on the North Cornish coast.

Click Here for the Guide - Tintagel North

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Barn Local goes Walkabout
07 December

Earlier this year Barn Climbing Wall local, Ollie Wheeldon (Aged 18), travelled to the island of Kalymnos with a mission. 8a.

Ollie has writen an article of his exploits during his 1 month trip on the island, about the routes, the people, and the things to do out there. These include, snorkling, drinking, climbing 5 F7b's Onsight in a day, climbing 2 8a's in his duration, and some other strong ascents from his global friends.

To read this well written experience, and gain some psyche, >Click Here<

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A Jungle Book Story.
01 December

Mikey Cleverdon has made a remarkable first ascent at the Lakeside Boulders, Burrator, Dartmoor.

The route is the easier version of an even more insane roof project. By no means is Mikey's first ascent easy. The route, aptly named "King of the Swingers" and graded Font 7c, climbs the "Baric's Roof" directly towards the sunlight, utilising micro crimps and a rediculous swing.

The harder line on the roof would eliminate the use of the lower boulder as foot holds and use the initial juggy rail instead. This yet to be done, along with a possible line moving in a different direction through the roof. So, more here for the strong few!

Yet again Mikey has advertised the produce of The Barn Climbing Wall.