Moor Action from Squire – V12 Second Ascent!

Way back in 2007, one of the regions (if not foremost) leading bouldering pioneers, Dave Henderson, author of the original online South West Climbing Resource, Javu.co.uk, succeeded in completing the first ascent of Dartmoor’s hardest boulder problem. The Green Room makes a full rising traverse link-up across the entirety of The Wave Boulder at Bonehill and was given a grade of soft V12. 8 years gone by and finally the second ascent has been earned by the ever determined James Squire.

On the 8th February James managed his ascent of The Green Room, completing it in just 3 sessions, although having previously worked on many of the other problems that The Green Room utilises.

James commented, “I first tried The Green Room back in October and was surprised to have done all the moves in a session, but I struggled on the link. Distracted by climbing further afield, I left the project until January where an unlucky slip post-crux saw my attempt ruined. I was gutted!

“I returned last weekend and after trying all the moves and feeling a bit tired from looking around universities the day before, I gave it a go from the start. I ended up fighting all the way through to the finish! It wasn’t my finest display of climbing, as I almost fell off about five times, but I’m happy to finish off this notorious Dartmoor test piece!

As always, we like to hear about the nitty gritty! We asked James what he thought of the grade.

James said, “As for the grade, soft V12 is appropriate, I think, as it feels similar in difficulty to The Carpenter’s Apprentice (video) in South Wales. However it is a totally different type of climbing.

“I am now looking forward to getting back on some classic projects in the Peak, and getting on some of the hard stuff that Mikey and Alex have been developing.”

ABOUT JAMES

James Squire is a dedicated young boulderer from Bristol who dedicates himself to travelling the UK and Europe in search of amazing boulders. He has climbed up to 8A+ and is sponsored by La Sportiva, The Climbing Academy, Tip Juice and Padstar Climbing Holds.|