Major New Bouldering Guide for Cornwall

luxylyan-coverAfter much anticipation, the relatively recently developed bouldering area’s of Luxulyan Valley, near St Austell now have a FREE online guide. Photographer, guidebook author and general nice guy Tom Last has produced this visually impressive and easy to use guidebook over the past year or so.

Tom Last reports:

“With West Penwith and The Lizard to the west and the mighty Cheesewring and the moors to the east, the bit of Cornwall in the middle – that is to say the most densely populated part of the county – can feel a little underrepresented in terms of decent rock. So with practically every inch of the likes of Roche Rock and Helman Tor scoured for possible problems, it was probably surprising to find a largely underdeveloped area of good quality rock sat within a stone’s throw of these two popular venues. That was exactly the situation a decade ago in Luxulyan Valley Woods where up until that point a handful of trad routes and a couple of sports routes – including the three star classic Strongbow f7c – guarded what was a wealth of mossy potential.

Since then a steady stream of development has revealed several venues throughout these wooded slopes. The previous inertia is easy to explain, since dense woodland and difficulty of navigation are not to every climbers taste. Nevertheless, on a winter’s day, when it’s too cold for the moor, the woodland provides an unsurpassed ambience and I’m confident that this guide will provide the means with which to find all the developed problems – plus a great many unclimbed lines – that exist in the woods today.
This guide is designed to be used in conjunction with Barnaby Carver and Sean Hawken’s Cheesewring and South East Cornwall, A Climber’s Guide (the most recent existing comprehensive guide to the area) as only the routes first climbed since its publication are represented here. These amount to over 120 boulder problems and 16 new routes from VB-V5 and Vdiff to E5, plus a number of potential projects all covered in over 50 pages of photo topos.

No single venue within the woods can in truth claim to be a major venue, but collectively the area represents a significant proportion of the established rock climbs in inland Cornwall and with luck and the use of this guide and a little perseverence from you lot, the place with not only stay clean, but the climbs will continue to grow in both number and difficulty for some years to come.”